UW Photo Classes

Learn how to get the most out of your gear with Underwater Photo-Tech's underwater photography classes. From learning which camera to choose to the nuances of Photoshop for underwater photographers, we offer training from some of the industries top pros.

Course Listings:

• Winter 2009 schedule TBA - check back again soon for our course offerings!

UW Photo Cheat Sheets!

Our cheat sheets will help underwater photographers with digital SLR systems get up and running fast. Either print this page, or download the PDF's of our cheat sheets to print and take with you on your next trip.

Digital SLR Set-up Macro

1. Install flat port and any extensions that lens calls for.
   
   
2. Set the camera to (M) manual exposure and shutter speed to 1/125 second & f-stop at f11, ISO 100 or lowest ISO setting.
   
   
   1. This is only a starting place. The shutter speed only makes a difference when shooting fish portraits or something where ambient light will be part of the photo. Start with an f-stop at f-8 or f-11 because, while diving and a grab shot happens, you will be ready for it. F-11 or f-8 is good f-stops for subjects that are 3-3.5 feet away with strobes at full power.
   2. When moving closer to a subject change to a smaller f-stop to create more depth of field and reduce over-lighting from strobe. i.e.…. f-16 @ 2.5’ f-22 @ 2’ f-32 @ 1’. Again these are starting points. The subject matter and strobe power will make a difference so you can turn on the cameras highlights or histogram setting to help in adjusting exposure. I find it easier to change f-stop than change strobe power. Remember the smaller the f-stop the more depth of field.
   3. ISO is set at 100 or 200 depending on camera but never on Auto ISO.
      
      
3. Meter can be set on matrix for help in ambient light when doing fish portraits but flash will be doing most of your lighting so this setting will have very little impact on your photo’s.
   
   
4. Set focus to (S) single servo setting. This will help to lock focus on critical spots like the eye of a fish. Once the focus is locked, move the camera for good composition and fire. Use the auto focus lock button if you wish to take several shots without loosing focus.
   
   
5. When shooting very small subjects and you find that the lens keeps tracking back and forth because the subject is moving, try focusing at a stationary subject that is roughly the same distance away, shut auto focus off or lock it by using auto focus lock. Now you can move in and out until the subject appears sharp in the viewfinder and shoot away.
   
   
6. Use a focus light to add more contrast to the subject when camera is having a hard time locking focus.
   
   
7. Do a strobe fire test or TTL test if applicable to make sure camera and strobe are working correctly. When using a manual strobe make sure not to use a shutter speed higher than the sync speed of the camera.
   
   
8. Test all functions controls like f-stops, shutter speeds and focus lock to make sure everything is working correctly before entering water.
   
   
9. Do a fresh water dunk test after every system set-up and look for any bubbles that might be signs of a leaking problem.

download the PDF of the macro cheat sheet

Digital SLR set-up Wide-Angle

1. Install dome, extension ring if needed and diopter.
   
   
2. Set camera to (M) manual exposure with shutter speed at 1/125 second and f-stop at f-8 or f-11.
   
   
   1. This is only a starting place. The f-stop is set at f-8 because my strobe’s guide number is f-8 at three feet with ISO 100. If my camera’s lowest ISO were 200 I would start at f-11.
   2. The shutter speed controls the ambient light that I like to underexpose by one to two stops. Pick a spot in the water column that you want the background color to be and adjust the shutter speed to zero out your meter. You can underexpose by simply changing the shutter speed.
   3. When shooting a scene with a subject closer that three feet you will need to either power down the strobe or change the f-stop to a smaller stop. Remember if you change the f-stop you will need to meter ambient light and change shutter speed to balance. This is when strobes with several power settings are nice.
      
      
3. Set camera meter to spot metering to aid in meter ambient light.
   
   
4. Focus can be set on (C) continues focus which lets you track an animal with the release button pushed ? way. Be careful because the camera will fire in this mode even if the subject is not in focus. I usually have the camera focus set on (S) single servo so the camera will not fire if the subject is not in focus.
   
   
5. I sometimes set the camera in an (A) aperture priority mode when shooting subjects that are moving and the ambient light is changing constantly. In this mode you set the aperture and the camera shutter speeds will change depending on the ambient light. When using this mode set the exposure compensation to underexpose by one to two stops depending on your preference. One thing to watch for is not letting the camera pick a faster shutter speed than the sync speed of the camera.
   
   
6. Do a strobe fire test or TTL test if applicable to make sure camera and strobe are working correctly.
   
   
7. Test all functions controls like f-stops, shutter speeds and zoom gear to make sure everything is working correctly before entering water.
   
   
8. Do a fresh water dunk test after every system set-up and look for any bubbles that might be signs of a leaking problem.

download the PDF of the wide-angle cheat sheet